Draw the sewing line on the back of the topper | sewing line vs seam allowance
When sewing cloth menstrual pads, the sewing line is the exact line you stitch on, while the seam allowance is the extra fabric outside that line. Drawing and sewing directly on a marked line gives more consistent, accurate shapes than relying on fabric edges as your guide.
Why I switched from using seam allowance to sewing lines
When I first started sewing cloth pads, I used the standard sewing method where you cut the fabric with seam allowance included and align the fabric edge with the presser foot. That works fine for clothing, but I noticed my pad shapes would vary, especially around the wings, because the fabric edges stretch or warp during sewing.
Once I started drawing the exact shape of the pad onto the back of the topper fabric, I got more consistent results. I position the line directly under the sewing needle, sew along it, and leave a small hole for turning. The pad shapes end up perfectly even, and the line doesn’t shift like the fabric edge can.
Tips for stability and accuracy
If you’re using knits or fleece as topper fabrics, you can add a hidden woven layer like cotton flannel or muslin under the topper. This stabilizes the fabric and gives you a good surface to draw on. That stabilizing layer becomes your guide for the sewing line.
Time-saving workflow
When I sew multiple pads at once, I trace the pad outline, sew directly on the line, and rough-cut around it. After sewing, I use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance before turning. Since I trim anyway, this makes the process faster and keeps shapes precise.
Older versions of my Versodile cloth pad patterns included seam allowance options, but newer ones are drafted with the exact intended shape of the pad as the sewing line. The core templates, or absorbent layers, should still be cut to the exact shape shown.
Why I switched from using seam allowance to sewing lines
When I first started sewing cloth pads, I used the standard sewing method where you cut the fabric with seam allowance included and align the fabric edge with the presser foot. That works fine for clothing, but I noticed my pad shapes would vary, especially around the wings, because the fabric edges stretch or warp during sewing.
Once I started drawing the exact shape of the pad onto the back of the topper fabric, I got more consistent results. I position the line directly under the sewing needle, sew along it, and leave a small hole for turning. The pad shapes end up perfectly even, and the line doesn’t shift like the fabric edge can.
Stability and accuracy
If you’re using knits or fleece as topper fabrics, you can add a hidden woven layer like cotton flannel or muslin under the topper. This stabilizes the fabric and gives you a good surface to draw on. That stabilizing layer with the drawn line becomes your guide for the sewing.
Time saving workflow
When I sew multiple pads at once, I trace the pad outline, sew directly on the line, and rough-cut around it. After sewing, I use pinking shears to trim the seam allowance before turning. Since I trim anyway, this makes the process faster and keeps shapes precise.
Older versions of my Versodile cloth pad patterns included seam allowance options, but newer ones are drafted with the exact intended shape of the pad as the sewing line. The core templates, or absorbent layers, should still be cut to the exact shape shown.
Corky Lorenz
November 13, 2025