Intro to Ice Dye

This is the method I use to create color blends that feel more organic and layered than liquid dye. It gives you natural watermarks, gradients, and softer transitions. Once you understand the mechanics, you’ll have enough control to have a lot of fun.

Instead of using liquid dye, you place powdered dye over ice and let it melt into the fabric. The ice slows things down, which gives the dye time to split and shift. This can create surprising blends and soft color transitions that are hard to get otherwise.
Some people try it once and give up because they got muddy results. That usually comes from bad dye choices (like colors with too many dark components), fabric that wasn’t prepped right, or not understanding soda ash.

To ice dye one shirt, you’ll need:
- Cotton or rayon shirt (washed)
- Fiber-reactive dye (like Dharma or Procion)
- Soda ash (if sprinkling, 1 to 2 tablespoons)
- Ice (crushed or cubed)
- Gloves and mask
- Plastic bin or tray
- Cooling rack (optional, for drainage)
- Old towel or plastic dropcloth (for your workspace)

- Wear a mask when handling dye powder. It’s not food safe and you don’t want to breathe it.

- Use separate tools and containers for dye. Not the ones you cook or eat with.

- Wear gloves unless you want stained hands for a few days.
Once you use something for dye, it’s no longer safe for food. Just pick up a bin or some cheap bowls and call them permanent art tools. Anything plastic will hold onto dye particles even if you rinse it.
Also: do not dye on your kitchen counters. Use a folding table, a utility sink, or lay down protection if you’re working indoors.

Soda ash makes dye bond to the fabric. If you skip it, the colors will wash right out. Think of it as the primer. It doesn’t change the color directly, but it’s what makes the color stick by altering the PH of the fibers.
You can either:
Soak your fabric in soda ash water before folding, then let it dry or stay damp


Sprinkle soda ash powder on top of the dye and ice

- If it’s brand new: wash it once to remove sizing or factory coating

- If it’s been worn: just make sure it’s clean (no fabric softener)

You can dye fabric dry or damp. Damp fabric tends to absorb the dye more quickly and evenly. Dry fabric gives you more dramatic marks, especially in tight folds. Try both and see what you like.
If you’re working with a blend like cotton-poly, you’ll usually get fainter color on the polyester. Most fiber-reactive dyes do not bond well with synthetic fibers.
If you’re dyeing fabric for sewing, especially if you’ll combine it with other colors, you need to soak the finished piece in hot water after batching to release any loose dye. Wash it on hot with regular detergent (no bleach) three to five times. Use a color catcher each time to check if dye is still releasing. If the sheet still turns color, don’t sew with it yet.

Any plastic bin, bowl, or tray works. You want something deep enough to hold the fabric, ice, and catch the liquid underneath.
If you want cleaner colors or sharper patterns, elevate the fabric above the runoff using a rack, cookie cooling sheet, or cut-up shelving. If you don’t mind color pooling or mixing, let it sit in the muck.

I think the melt speed matters more than the amount of ice. If it melts too fast, it can wash the color through the fabric faster than it can bond. If you use a small amount of ice and it melts fast, that’s ok. But using a lot of ice, and setting it up in heat, can lead to faded results.
For full coverage, use enough ice to completely cover the surface of the fabric. Crushed ice melts faster but can give more mottled texture. Big cubes or chunks melt slower and give smoother transitions.
If you’re batching shirts in winter or in a cold garage, the ice will melt slower. This is not a problem, it just takes longer and you should probably wait longer to rinse it out.

- Ice dye is messier than it looks. The dye powder floats in the air and, once moistened, will stain anything it touches.
Don’t do it in your kitchen

- Don’t do it over carpet

- Garage floor, laundry room sink, or an outdoor table are better options

- Put down a towel or tarp if needed

Once the fabric has batched:
Rinse out the soda ash and loose dye using cold water

- Then rinse with hot water until mostly clear

- Machine wash with detergent on hot

- Dry however you want. Heat won’t ruin it after this stage.

- Use a utility sink, bathtub, or plastic tub to catch the dye runoff. It will stain grout and fiberglass if you’re not careful.

Don’t start with your favorite shirt

Use one to three colors your first time (not a whole rainbow)

Don’t overthink placement. The ice will move it anyway.

Don’t check it early. Let the full 24 hours pass.

Photograph your setup before the ice melts (for reference)

Prep your fabric (wash, soda ash if soaking)

Fold or place the fabric in a container

Add ice on top of the fabric

Sprinkle powdered dye over the ice

Let it sit for 24 hours (room temp is fine, cover if it’s in a dusty spot)

Rinse, wash, and dry