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how to sew cloth pads 

This is a quick overview of the process. I also have lots of videos for those who are visual learners. 

Cut out fabric. Usually, you'll have 1 layer for the moisture barrier, at least 1 absorbent core layer, and 1 layer that goes next to the body. I like to use an extra full layer to attach the core to before sewing all of the layers together. This makes the core stitching hidden, so you don't have to worry about having it perfectly centered. 

sew core to the back of the topper, or to the extra hidden layer. Use your sewing line template to draw a line onto the back of the topper or hidden layer. Drawing the line can be done before or after attaching the core. 

Pin all of the layers together and position the needle to come down directly onto your drawn sewing line. Follow the line all the way around, leaving a hole to turn the pad right side out. The bigger the hole, the easier it is to turn the pad out, but it can be harder to keep the flaps folded neatly when topstitching. 1.5 to 2" seems to be good. 

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Trim off excess seam allowance. I like to use these pinking shears for this. The 7mm serrated is my favorite. In my experience, the pinking shears you can get locally in store are not great for cutting thick layers. 

Snip into corners to release tension when the pad is turned right side out. Clip off outer corners to avoid bulky corners in the final pad. Turn the pad right side out, carefully poking out corners with a blunt pokey tool, like a knitting needle. 

Next you will topstitch around the edge of the pad. This will hold the turning hole closed and give the pad a finished look. Don't try to sew super close to the edge, as this can be more difficult to do neatly. 

Apply snaps or velcro to the wings. To determine the placement of the closure, fold the wings around the pad and mark when you want the hole or velcro to be. 

Download the free cloth pad sewing pattern used in this video.

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Cloth Pad absorbency chart
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