sew pads
step by step, pad construction
This is an overview of the process.
Here are some videos for those who are visual learners.
assemble your pattern
You can print a ready made sewing pattern or draw your own, based on the shape of your underwear. If you have no idea where to start, try sewing a 10-11" pad first.
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A common "snapped width" to start with is 2.5 inches, across the wing area.
fabric
3 main parts
Pads consist of a moisture barrier, absorbent core, and a topper layer than goes against the skin.
sewing line
mark your path
Trace the sewing line shape onto the back of your topper fabric. Use a fine tip marker or washable marker. This is the line you will sew on, not the line you cut the fabric on.
cut
core vs topper
Most of the time, you will use the core line as the actual cut line. BUT, the sewing line, for the topper, is where you draw a line to sew on later. Roughly cut around that line, leaving ample seam allowance.
placement
center core in sewing line
Pin or baste the core to the back of the topper. Lots of people like using washable glue stick to keep the core from moving around while sewing.
attach core
stitch the core to the topper
In this image, I am sewing the core to a hidden layer of muslin. This is totally optional. It's common to use a straight, wavy or zig zag stitch around the edge of the core.
pin layers
right sides together
The pretty side of the topper should face the outer side of the moisture barrier layer. Use enough pins around the seam allowance to feel confident that the layers won't shift while you are sewing.
stitch layers
with a straight stitch at about 2.5
Position the needle right over the sewing line.
Backstitch to lock in stitches. Sew all the way around, leaving about a 2" turning hole. Backstitch at the end.
trim
trim seam allowance
To make sure the seams are not bulky, I like to use these pinking shears. The 7mm serrated is my favorite. In my experience, the pinking shears you can get locally in store are not great for cutting thick layers. You can also use regular straight scissors.
corners
little snips to release tension
before turning the pad right side out, clip into any sharp corners or curves. The pad will pucker in that area. If you forget this step, just turn the back back out and clip.
outer corners
clip off sharp outer tips
This is not as crucial as the inner corner clipping, but it is a nice touch. It helps the corners not have a little bump, which can be hard to topstitch over.
turn out
carefully turn the pad right side out
If the hole you left is tight, trimming the seam allowance should help reduce the bulk that has to pass through. It also helps to scrunch/squeeze the pad to make it softer before turning.
poke
insert a blunt tool to smooth seams
I like to use a large knitting needle or pen to poke out the corners and make the seams evenly smooth before topstitching.
topstitch
align edge of pad to presser foot
Stitch around the edge of the pad. This will hold the turning hole closed and give the pad a finished look. Don't try to sew super close to the edge, since this can be more difficult to do neatly. Increase stitch length to 3 or 3.5
curves
lift and pivot the pad
sharp curves can be tricky to sew. I like to keep my hand on the foot lift so I can lift, pivot, and stitch a few times. Think of curves as a series of straight lines.
closure
apply snaps or velcro to wings
It's most common for people to use plastic KAM snaps, but you can also try velcro is finger dexterity is a concern.
Fold wings to the back, and poke a hole while they are in the position that you prefer.
Topstitch
exposed core style
When topstitching thicker fabrics like cotton velour or bamboo velour, it helps to not stitch as close to the edge.
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You can skip topstitching the wings if you want.​
This cotton velour is from Nature's Fabrics.
core layers
This image is a quick reference for how many layers of each fabric type to cut. Always prewash absorbent fabrics before sewing, so they can shrink ahead of time.
