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Get those crispy lines, and smooth colors. Geology inspired dyed garments. This is a tie dye technique that uses artificial sinew to create crisp lines and bands of color. Geode tie pairs wells with ice dye. Geode Tie Dye Here's the facebook group. How to use soda ash . PDF Tutorial for download. Geode Steps Tie Presoak Setup Add Dye Batch Help Crisp Lines Tying with sinew basic tools You need artificial sinew, a puller, and a pre-washed shirt. sinew, waxy thread Look for waxy, flat artificial sinew. Both Amazon and Dharma Trading Company stock reliable options. spacing between ties Place ties at least a 1 inch apart for proper dye saturation. More space allows dye to fully saturate between ties, creating distinct lines. keep it neat Start with four wraps, pull tight, then add three more for nice line definition. Too many wraps will results in a mess that isn't very tight after you pull. protect your hands Use the puller (pvc pipe for me) and palm pressure instead of finger strength when tightening. You can place your pulling hand on a shirt or towel to slide on a table while you pull. planned placement Start with back of the shirt, then shoulders, then front for balanced design. 4 bunches contain the top half of the shirt. These 4 bunches look great when they are positioned toward the top when applying ice and dye. mess it up a little Make some of the fabric messy under the tie without overcrowding the tied sections. This helps to get some jagged, interesting lines. wrap, but don't make knots Pull until you feel resistance, but not so tight that the sinew breaks or frays. The sinew holds without requiring knots. build confidence Keep it simple the first time you try it. Start with three ties per bunch while learning the technique. If you get results that you like, you can try adding more detail, if you prefer.

Videos, PDF sewing patterns, and step by step instructions for how to sew your own washable cloth pads. Sew your own cloth pads Links, demos & sewing patterns Start Free beginner pattern and guide Steps Pictures of the sewing process Sewing Group Facebook group for sewing Bamboo fleece Absorbent fabric for pads Contour The longest, custom pad pattern! Youtube Tutorials Cloth pad sewing demo videos Patterns Download and start sewing KAM Snaps To keep the wings closed

Comparison between fast and slow ice melting speed Melt Speed Comparison between fast and slow ice melting speed Fleece These 2 shirts are dyed with a layer of polyester fleece backing, to bulk the thin shirt fabric. Lay it flat first. Contemplate Which side of the shirt should face up? I can never remember what looks the best. Probably face down is best. haha. Fold Make tall scrunches and squish them together. Taller will make longer flowing lines. Bin Stuff the shirt into a bin and make sure it's snug enough to keep the peaks upright. Good drainage is a must. Set up Both of these shirts were set up on an incline, with mega blocks holding up one end of the metal bin. Dye Sprinkle powdered procion dye over the ice. I no longer suggest adding more soda ash on with the dye. Compare A second shirt is folded and set up in the same way. One shirt is left to melt at room temp. The other is set up with a space heater speeding up the melting. Fast melt This is the result of the faster melt speed. I think it caused the dye to move through the shirt faster than it could react to the fabric. Slow melt This shirt has a more even result in color saturation, with a longer melt time. Neither is wrong, but I do prefer the slower melt. See All Tutorials

Compare A second shirt is folded and set up in the same way. One shirt is left to melt at room temp. The other is set up with a space heater speeding up the melting. All steps: Fleece These 2 shirts are dyed with a layer of polyester fleece backing, to bulk the thin shirt fabric. Lay it flat first. Bin Stuff the shirt into a bin and make sure it's snug enough to keep the peaks upright. Good drainage is a must. Compare A second shirt is folded and set up in the same way. One shirt is left to melt at room temp. The other is set up with a space heater speeding up the melting. Contemplate Which side of the shirt should face up? I can never remember what looks the best. Probably face down is best. haha. Set up Both of these shirts were set up on an incline, with mega blocks holding up one end of the metal bin. Fast melt This is the result of the faster melt speed. I think it caused the dye to move through the shirt faster than it could react to the fabric. Fold Make tall scrunches and squish them together. Taller will make longer flowing lines. Dye Sprinkle powdered procion dye over the ice. I no longer suggest adding more soda ash on with the dye. Slow melt This shirt has a more even result in color saturation, with a longer melt time. Neither is wrong, but I do prefer the slower melt. See all tutorials

Fold Make tall scrunches and squish them together. Taller will make longer flowing lines. All steps: Fleece These 2 shirts are dyed with a layer of polyester fleece backing, to bulk the thin shirt fabric. Lay it flat first. Bin Stuff the shirt into a bin and make sure it's snug enough to keep the peaks upright. Good drainage is a must. Compare A second shirt is folded and set up in the same way. One shirt is left to melt at room temp. The other is set up with a space heater speeding up the melting. Contemplate Which side of the shirt should face up? I can never remember what looks the best. Probably face down is best. haha. Set up Both of these shirts were set up on an incline, with mega blocks holding up one end of the metal bin. Fast melt This is the result of the faster melt speed. I think it caused the dye to move through the shirt faster than it could react to the fabric. Fold Make tall scrunches and squish them together. Taller will make longer flowing lines. Dye Sprinkle powdered procion dye over the ice. I no longer suggest adding more soda ash on with the dye. Slow melt This shirt has a more even result in color saturation, with a longer melt time. Neither is wrong, but I do prefer the slower melt. See all tutorials

Lazy mixing It's annoying to mix liquid dye and then funnel it into squirt bottles, which is why I usually just ice dye. But for this, you can just mix a second color in a wide mouth jar and stir it. No need for a squirt bottle transfer. 1/2tsp of fuchsia for the dark bottom color. All steps: Base color Decide on your first color, which needs to be light and bright. I decided to use 1 Tsp soft orange powdered dye. Mix in about a cup or two of warm water until the dye dissolves. Pour Dump in the second color at one end. It will naturally flow toward the other end, in a way that looks nice. 8oz of water seems to be a good amount of liquid to use for the second color. Too much water might dilute the color or overtake the whole design. Scrunch Place the shirt into the bin of dye and swish it around until it’s fully saturated in color. Then scrunch it loosely. This will make it so that there’s no white left on the shirt. Squish it Use a gloved hand to squish, wiggle and generally mess with the shirt. It's fun. It mixes the color a little so the gradient is smooth. There will still be subtle details even if you mess with it. Lazy mixing It's annoying to mix liquid dye and then funnel it into squirt bottles, which is why I usually just ice dye. But for this, you can just mix a second color in a wide mouth jar and stir it. No need for a squirt bottle transfer. 1/2tsp of fuchsia for the dark bottom color. Rinse & reveal Since the water was warm, I didn't wait the whole 24 hours for the color to batch. I guessed that it would be ok after 12 hours since the heat sped up the reaction of the dye bonding. Reds/oranges react faster than other colors, too. This shirt is very bright and makes me happy to look at. See all tutorials

Scrunch Place the shirt into the bin of dye and swish it around until it’s fully saturated in color. Then scrunch it loosely. This will make it so that there’s no white left on the shirt. All steps: Base color Decide on your first color, which needs to be light and bright. I decided to use 1 Tsp soft orange powdered dye. Mix in about a cup or two of warm water until the dye dissolves. Pour Dump in the second color at one end. It will naturally flow toward the other end, in a way that looks nice. 8oz of water seems to be a good amount of liquid to use for the second color. Too much water might dilute the color or overtake the whole design. Scrunch Place the shirt into the bin of dye and swish it around until it’s fully saturated in color. Then scrunch it loosely. This will make it so that there’s no white left on the shirt. Squish it Use a gloved hand to squish, wiggle and generally mess with the shirt. It's fun. It mixes the color a little so the gradient is smooth. There will still be subtle details even if you mess with it. Lazy mixing It's annoying to mix liquid dye and then funnel it into squirt bottles, which is why I usually just ice dye. But for this, you can just mix a second color in a wide mouth jar and stir it. No need for a squirt bottle transfer. 1/2tsp of fuchsia for the dark bottom color. Rinse & reveal Since the water was warm, I didn't wait the whole 24 hours for the color to batch. I guessed that it would be ok after 12 hours since the heat sped up the reaction of the dye bonding. Reds/oranges react faster than other colors, too. This shirt is very bright and makes me happy to look at. See all tutorials

Rinse & reveal Since the water was warm, I didn't wait the whole 24 hours for the color to batch. I guessed that it would be ok after 12 hours since the heat sped up the reaction of the dye bonding. Reds/oranges react faster than other colors, too. This shirt is very bright and makes me happy to look at. All steps: Base color Decide on your first color, which needs to be light and bright. I decided to use 1 Tsp soft orange powdered dye. Mix in about a cup or two of warm water until the dye dissolves. Pour Dump in the second color at one end. It will naturally flow toward the other end, in a way that looks nice. 8oz of water seems to be a good amount of liquid to use for the second color. Too much water might dilute the color or overtake the whole design. Scrunch Place the shirt into the bin of dye and swish it around until it’s fully saturated in color. Then scrunch it loosely. This will make it so that there’s no white left on the shirt. Squish it Use a gloved hand to squish, wiggle and generally mess with the shirt. It's fun. It mixes the color a little so the gradient is smooth. There will still be subtle details even if you mess with it. Lazy mixing It's annoying to mix liquid dye and then funnel it into squirt bottles, which is why I usually just ice dye. But for this, you can just mix a second color in a wide mouth jar and stir it. No need for a squirt bottle transfer. 1/2tsp of fuchsia for the dark bottom color. Rinse & reveal Since the water was warm, I didn't wait the whole 24 hours for the color to batch. I guessed that it would be ok after 12 hours since the heat sped up the reaction of the dye bonding. Reds/oranges react faster than other colors, too. This shirt is very bright and makes me happy to look at. See all tutorials

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Test flow I squeezed a few dots onto a paper towel to get the paint flowing evenly. All steps: Select paint I used Jacquard Lumiere blue mixed with leftover white metallic to lighten the color for an orange shirt. Shake The paints blended together smoothly inside the bottle after a good shake. Rhythm I used steady pressure and timing to keep the dot size and spacing consistent. Pour The paints were combined into a squeeze bottle using a funnel from my tie-dye supplies. Test flow I squeezed a few dots onto a paper towel to get the paint flowing evenly. Nozzel I sealed the bottle with a tie-dye nozzle cap to prepare for application. Start dotting With the paper towel removed, I started applying dots directly to the shirt. See all tutorials

Pour Dump in the second color at one end. It will naturally flow toward the other end, in a way that looks nice. 8oz of water seems to be a good amount of liquid to use for the second color. Too much water might dilute the color or overtake the whole design. All steps: Base color Decide on your first color, which needs to be light and bright. I decided to use 1 Tsp soft orange powdered dye. Mix in about a cup or two of warm water until the dye dissolves. Pour Dump in the second color at one end. It will naturally flow toward the other end, in a way that looks nice. 8oz of water seems to be a good amount of liquid to use for the second color. Too much water might dilute the color or overtake the whole design. Scrunch Place the shirt into the bin of dye and swish it around until it’s fully saturated in color. Then scrunch it loosely. This will make it so that there’s no white left on the shirt. Squish it Use a gloved hand to squish, wiggle and generally mess with the shirt. It's fun. It mixes the color a little so the gradient is smooth. There will still be subtle details even if you mess with it. Lazy mixing It's annoying to mix liquid dye and then funnel it into squirt bottles, which is why I usually just ice dye. But for this, you can just mix a second color in a wide mouth jar and stir it. No need for a squirt bottle transfer. 1/2tsp of fuchsia for the dark bottom color. Rinse & reveal Since the water was warm, I didn't wait the whole 24 hours for the color to batch. I guessed that it would be ok after 12 hours since the heat sped up the reaction of the dye bonding. Reds/oranges react faster than other colors, too. This shirt is very bright and makes me happy to look at. See all tutorials

Rhythm I used steady pressure and timing to keep the dot size and spacing consistent. All steps: Select paint I used Jacquard Lumiere blue mixed with leftover white metallic to lighten the color for an orange shirt. Shake The paints blended together smoothly inside the bottle after a good shake. Rhythm I used steady pressure and timing to keep the dot size and spacing consistent. Pour The paints were combined into a squeeze bottle using a funnel from my tie-dye supplies. Test flow I squeezed a few dots onto a paper towel to get the paint flowing evenly. Nozzel I sealed the bottle with a tie-dye nozzle cap to prepare for application. Start dotting With the paper towel removed, I started applying dots directly to the shirt. See all tutorials